We
all know that certain fabrics are more suitable for some projects
than others. Do you know where fabrics come from, or how to care
for them? This little chart will help you make your selections.
Natural
Fabrics
Up
until the 1900s, our choices for fabrics were limited to those which
came from natural sources. Since then, a variety of man-made fabrics
have been created, but many people still prefer the textures and
feel of natural fabrics. Here's a summary of the four main types
of natural fabrics:
Cotton
- comes from cotton boll (plant). Can be woven, pressed by heat
into flannel, or used as knits. Good for almost all purposes, such
as Apparel, Crafts, Quilting, Baby and Children's accessories. As
a natural fiber, cotton "breathes" which makes it comfortable
to wear. For quilters, cotton is the fabric of choice-- it handles
and sews easily. Care: machine washable.
Linen
- comes from flax (plant). Real linen wrinkles easily, but is cool,
and like cotton, linen "breathes"-- making it a good choice
for summer apparel. Linen is also great for table top accessories.
To maintain its crispness, linen is often dry cleaned. For a softer
look, many linens can be hand-washed. Read your labels carefully.
Silk
- comes from silk worms. The collection process is intricate and
explains why silk is often expensive. Silk can have either a smooth
finish or a nubby finish (raw silk). Care: usually dry clean, but
many new silks may be hand washed. Read label carefully.
Wool
- comes from animal coats (the animal is not harmed!). Known for its
warmth, wool is often blended with man-made fibers. Good for apparel,
especially outer wear. Care: usually dry clean, although some wools
may be hand-washed. Read labels carefully.
Polyester
- When it was first introduced, polyester became a favorite fabric
for apparel. It is easy to care for (mostly machine washable - read
labels carefully) and keeps its shape and color well. The disadvantage
of polyester is that it does not "breathe," which means
it retains body heat and moisture and its not as comfortable as
some of the natural fibers. Depending on the manufacturer, polyester
fabrics have different names, many of which you will recognize -
Dacron, Fortrel, Kodel and Trevira are among the many. Polyester
may be offered in the form of knits, jerseys or cotton
and silk-like fabrics.
Rayon
- Considered the most "natural" of the man-made fabrics,
rayon is most often used for apparel. Depending on its construction,
it has a soft draping quality, or can be made to look like linen.
Rayon, too, has brand names such as Avril or Enka. It is more absorbent
than polyester and usually is best dry-cleaned.
Nylon
- New types are being developed yearly! Sometimes Nylon is mixed
with other fibers for apparel. Some Nylon brand names are Antron
and Viviana. Nylon is often a major fiber in knits, nylon tricot
(underwear) nylon velvet and stretch swim wear. Machine washable.
Acrylic
- (Brand names include Acrilan, Creslan, Orlon) is often used as
a substitute for wool, in sweaters, fleece wear and other outer
wear. (You'll also find acrylic-wool blends.) Like wool, acrylic
is warm and wrinkle resistant. One of its advantages is that it
is usually machine washable.
F
A B R I C T Y P E S A N D D E
S I G N S
Now
you know the basic categories of fabrics. Within those categories,
there are different types of fabrics, that are identified by their
construction (how the fibers are woven together, or by their design).
Here's a brief list of some of the terms you might come across when
looking at fabrics.
Types
of Cottons
Batiste
- very fine, soft, usually sheer cottons, often used for handkerchiefs,
nightwear and children's dresses.
Broadcloth
- closely woven fabric. If you look closely, you'll see tiny crosswise
ribs.
Calico
- plain woven cotton, usually printed with tiny floral designs.
Cambric - tightly woven cotton, usually in solid
colors, such as cambric blue. Used in apparel, especially casual
shirts.
Canvas
- heavyweight cotton, used for items that require strength, such
as tote bags, knapsacks, and slipcovers.
Chambray
- finely woven cotton, usually with white and another color. The
white is very subtle, used in the crosswise (warp) yarns. A chambray
shirt, for instance is usually pale blue, but if you look closely
you will see the white yarn.
Chino
- popularized by the GAP! This is cotton twill that has been pre-shrunk
and mercerized. Most often used for sports pants and other sports
wear.
Chintz
- highly glazed cotton with a rich glossy finish. Chintz adds a decorator
touch to home furnishings, and is also great for dressier apparel.
Corduroy
- cotton pile that has been cut and woven with wide or narrow ribs.
Denim
- the workhorse of cottons! Very strong, and similar to Chambray,
in that it is often made with white filling.
Duck
- another strong, durable cotton, used for projects that are meant
to last, i.e. travel accessories, slipcovers, awnings, etc.
Flannel
- very soft cotton, usually with a nap. Used often in baby wear.
For children and baby apparel, make sure it is flame retardant.
Garbardine - can be cotton or wool. This is the
twilled fabric that spans the seasons, and is often used in jackets,
skirts and pants.
Gingham - yarn-dyed woven cotton, usually seen
in the form of checks.
Khaki
- another strong cotton weave - used in uniforms and other items
that require strength.
Lawn
- cotton lawn is a fine, crisp, combed cotton fabric, used in children's
wear, nightwear and traditional quilting.
Madras
- originally from India. Real madras is hand-loomed and dyed with
vegetable dyes. Patterns are usually stripes or plaids.
Muslin - very basic plain woven fabrics. Depending
on the type, muslin can be coarse or fine, dyed or unbleached. The
unbleached variety is often used for pattern making or test garments.
Percale
- finely woven cotton, often used for sheets. The higher the thread
count, the softer the hand.
Piqué
- cotton that has been woven with a raised, cord or weld effect. Also
called dobby weave.
Poplin
- usually heavier weight cotton that has a very fine rib running from
selvedge to selvedge
Sateen
- cotton that has been woven with a satin weave
Seersucker
- crinkly cotton fabric, most often used in summer sports
wear.
Terry
- woven on knitted cotton pile with loops on one or both sides. Because
of its absorbency it is very often used for toweling.
Voile
- crisp, sheer, lightweight cotton, used for formal wear.